Modelling of Wave Energy Dissipation over Porous Mounds using Boussinesq-type Equations

The predictive skills of a Boussinesq-type model which is developed to simulate wave transformation over porous beds are further investigated with a new set of wave flume data. The governing equations of this model include a combined mass conservation equation, momentum conservation equation for the water layer and a momentum conservation equation for the porous medium. Momentum conservation equation for the porous layer incorporates an empirical Darcy- Forchheimer type term for laminar and turbulent frictional losses and an inertial term. Weakly nonlinear and highly nonlinear wave conditions are generated in the tests to assess the validity of the model parameter values obtained from an optimization technique. The model simulations show excellent agreement with experimental data for weakly nonlinear non-breaking waves and for breaking waves, when the values of the model parameters are determined by the optimization technique.