Simulation of breaking waves over different seabed configurations using phase-resolving wave models

The applicability of two phase-resolving wave models (Boussinesq-type) for simulating wave transformation over seabeds with plane slopes and with submerged structures is further investigated by coupling a turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) equation for wave breaking induced energy dissipation. Previous studies have shown that the models developed using Boussinesq equations with improved nonlinearity and frequency dispersion are capable of simulating wave evolution over mildly sloping beaches at shallow/intermediate water depths but with little emphasis on changes to bottom configurations. In this study, a published set of data is used to calibrate two phaseresolving wave models developed extending an improved form of the Boussinesq equations to include steep localised bottom slopes and wave breaking induced energy dissipation. The first model is limited to simulating wave transformation over impermeable beds but the second model is developed to incorporate porous beds. Porous damping is introduced in the second model by coupling the governing equations with a nonlinear Darcy-Forchheimer equation. The calibrated models with appropriate values for relevant model parameters are found to reproduce wave height, mean water level distributions across the surf zone for different wave conditions and bottom configurations with a high-level of accuracy in 1-dimensional horizontal (1DH) wave propagation. The results obtained from this study are vital in validating a 2-dimensional horizontal (2DH) wave-current model.