The Invisible Work of the Costume Performer

Lorraine Smith

doi:10.2478/njd-2024-0010

The Invisible Work of the Costume Performer

Lorraine Smith

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

Abstract

In the field of costume performance, the power of costume to create and communicate meaning and metaphor and enhance performer embodiment and audience connection has been evidenced and commended. There has been an abundance of research from both designer and performer perspectives, with a focus on the evolving relationship between the body and the costume. However, does 21st-century progressive experimental costume performance, which may include the use of unconventional materials, have the potential to impact the labour of the performer?

Costume can both reveal and hide the body, arguably making the work of the body visible and invisible. This research article builds on the paper presentation “The Invisible Work of the Costume Performer”, delivered at the NOFOD Conference 2024. It examines the potential for costume to conceal the cognitive, physical, and emotional labour of the performing body and the resulting impact this may have on the performer.

Building on the understanding of Western traditional approaches and hierarchies in performance making and the complex relationship between dancer/performer and pain, the performance projects PING (2014), PANG (2021), and You Can Take Me Home Toni (2023) are interrogated. From the perspective of the performer, and informed by discussions with designer Daphne Karstens, Lorraine Smith analyses and contextualises these projects through the lens of feminist concepts relating to invisible work and emotional management.
The article concludes by identifying possible solutions for making visible the invisible labour of the performer in costume performance, and for the management of this workload on the performer’s body.

Original language	English
Pages (from-to)	28-39
Number of pages	12
Journal	Nordic Journal of Dance
Volume	15
Issue number	2
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.2478/njd-2024-0010 https://doi.org/10.2478/njd-2024-0010
Publication status	Published - 1 Dec 2024

Bibliographical note

Nordic Journal of Dance – practice, education and research was established in 2010 within a network called DENN: Dance in Education Nordic Network.

The DENN network aimed at establishing a Nordic Journal of dance practice, research, containing both peer reviewed research articles, and practice related articles from the field of dance in education in general, in a Nordic context. Nordic Journal of Dance is thus a Nordic collaboration between researchers within dance, dance history, pedagogy, artistic research and more, connected to relevant institutions in all the Nordic countries. These researchers are all represented in the editorial board.

The purpose of the journal is to: Develop the quality of dance practice, education and research in the Nordic context. Exchanging experiences and knowledges in the doing, learning and teaching of dance/movement. Strengthening the Nordic perspective on movement, dance and education. Giving researchers a place to present their work and increasing the quality of publications within dance research.

Nordic Journal of Dance represents one of very few opportunities for researchers to publish their work. It is the only journal focusing on dance research in a Nordic context. Our impression is that it has a substantial impact. NOFOD – Nordic Forum for Dance Research is also a collaborator, having two representatives in the editorial board.

Access to Document

10.2478/njd-2024-0010Licence: CC BY
10.2478/njd-2024-0010Licence: CC BY

Cite this

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abstract = "In the field of costume performance, the power of costume to create and communicate meaning and metaphor and enhance performer embodiment and audience connection has been evidenced and commended. There has been an abundance of research from both designer and performer perspectives, with a focus on the evolving relationship between the body and the costume. However, does 21st-century progressive experimental costume performance, which may include the use of unconventional materials, have the potential to impact the labour of the performer? Costume can both reveal and hide the body, arguably making the work of the body visible and invisible. This research article builds on the paper presentation “The Invisible Work of the Costume Performer”, delivered at the NOFOD Conference 2024. It examines the potential for costume to conceal the cognitive, physical, and emotional labour of the performing body and the resulting impact this may have on the performer. Building on the understanding of Western traditional approaches and hierarchies in performance making and the complex relationship between dancer/performer and pain, the performance projects PING (2014), PANG (2021), and You Can Take Me Home Toni (2023) are interrogated. From the perspective of the performer, and informed by discussions with designer Daphne Karstens, Lorraine Smith analyses and contextualises these projects through the lens of feminist concepts relating to invisible work and emotional management. The article concludes by identifying possible solutions for making visible the invisible labour of the performer in costume performance, and for the management of this workload on the performer{\textquoteright}s body. ",

author = "Lorraine Smith",

note = "Nordic Journal of Dance – practice, education and research was established in 2010 within a network called DENN: Dance in Education Nordic Network. The DENN network aimed at establishing a Nordic Journal of dance practice, research, containing both peer reviewed research articles, and practice related articles from the field of dance in education in general, in a Nordic context. Nordic Journal of Dance is thus a Nordic collaboration between researchers within dance, dance history, pedagogy, artistic research and more, connected to relevant institutions in all the Nordic countries. These researchers are all represented in the editorial board. The purpose of the journal is to: Develop the quality of dance practice, education and research in the Nordic context. Exchanging experiences and knowledges in the doing, learning and teaching of dance/movement. Strengthening the Nordic perspective on movement, dance and education. Giving researchers a place to present their work and increasing the quality of publications within dance research. Nordic Journal of Dance represents one of very few opportunities for researchers to publish their work. It is the only journal focusing on dance research in a Nordic context. Our impression is that it has a substantial impact. NOFOD – Nordic Forum for Dance Research is also a collaborator, having two representatives in the editorial board. ",

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The Invisible Work of the Costume Performer

Abstract

Bibliographical note

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YCTMHT: You Can Take Me Home Toni

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The Invisible Work of the Costume Performer

Abstract

Bibliographical note

Access to Document

Other files and links

Fingerprint

Projects

YCTMHT: You Can Take Me Home Toni

Cite this